DIY Pallet Wood Arrow Art


DIY Pallet Wood Arrow Art


My wife and I saw some of these rustic arrow art pieces at different stores recently. We liked the look, but they were a bit pricey. So, I decided to make one. Watch the video to see how I made it:


We are not typically huge into trends, but we do like some of the arrows and rustic things that people have been adding as decor. There was a spot on the wall in my youngest son's room below two pallet wood floating shelves that I made that would be perfect for something like this. 

This simple project can be made from a single board, a hand saw, a hammer and a few nails. I chose to use a bandsaw and a finish nail gun, because I have them and it sped up the process a bit. 


Miter Saw -

Bandsaw -

Nail gun -

Wood glue -



Find the pallet wood board that you want to use. If you want the head of the arrow to be a bit wider, start with a wider board. The one I used was about 4.5" wide, and about 40" long. 

Start by laying out the head of your arrow. Many of the other dimensions will come from this, since it will need to have a certain look for everything to look like it belongs. Since my board was pretty much straight, I just used a speed square to mark a 45 degree line. This would be the arrow head. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-20 at 1.54.16 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-20 at 1.54.22 PM.jpeg

Then, I marked out the body of the arrow and each of the "feathers" that would go on the very back of the finished arrow. I based the size of these pieces off of the arrow head. I wanted ti to have certain proportions and this allowed me to look at it as I went. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-20 at 1.55.22 PM.jpeg

If you want to mark a pretty straight line without a ruler or any other kind of measurement, it is pretty easy. I learned this trick from Jon Peters. (He has a fantastic YouTube channel, so definitely go check that out.) You hold your pencil and then take one of your fingers and reference off of the side of the board. Then, you just constantly make sure that your finger is referenced against the side of the board, and as long as you don't move your hand or change your grip. the line will be very straight and consistent. I use this WAY more than I ever thought I would. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-20 at 1.55.32 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-20 at 1.54.38 PM.jpeg

I took the piece over to the bandsaw and cut out all of the pieces. The good thing about this project being rustic is that if you go off of your line a little bit, no biggie. You don't want to be way off, but a little bit really won't matter. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-20 at 1.54.55 PM.jpeg

The feathers needed to have some 45 degree angles cut in both sides so they would have a taper, so I marked those and cut them out on the bandsaw as well. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-20 at 1.56.03 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-20 at 1.56.27 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-20 at 1.56.31 PM.jpeg

Before attaching everything, I added one more touch. I found some light gray paint that I had leftover from another project and painted on the feather pieces and the arrow head. I like the effect this gave. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-20 at 1.56.50 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-20 at 1.57.17 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-20 at 1.57.22 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-20 at 1.57.29 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-20 at 1.57.46 PM.jpeg

I used a file to ease some of the edges. 

Then, I attached everything using a finish nail gun and some wood glue. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-20 at 1.58.16 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-20 at 1.58.25 PM.jpeg

All that was left was to attach some way for this to hang on the wall. I just used a basic picture framing loop, since we wanted the arrow to point straight up. I added a nail in the wall, and it was done. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-20 at 1.58.40 PM.jpeg


I really like how this turned out. If I had it to do over again, i would NOT offset the feather pieces like I did on this one. I thought it would look good and I just don't like how it looked when I was done. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-20 at 1.59.17 PM.jpeg

Are you going to build something like this? It is a fun, simple project that you can knock out in a matter of a couple of hours, including painting. Let me know below if you have any questions or comments. Thanks for following along!


Modern Wine Rack


Modern Wine Rack


I was commissioned to build some sort of wine rack that would sit on a counter top. The one I made was made from black walnut and had some hard maple accents. Watch the video to see just how I made it:


When the client approached me about building a wine rack for their counter top, they had a few requirements:

  • walnut
  • certain height to fit under cabinets
  • certain max width
  • hold stemless wine glasses
  • hold at least 5 bottles of wine

With all of that in mind, I started sketching out a few designs. I went back and forth with the client a few times before they settled on the final design. It has a really nice, modern look to it, and it can hold up to 9 wine bottles, as well as 6 stemless wine glasses. 

modern wine rack-9.jpg
modern wine rack-10.jpg
modern wine rack-13.jpg


Table saw -

Miter saw -

Tape measure -

Bandsaw -

Planer -

Random orbit sander -

Drill & driver -

Drill press -

Dowel plug cutter -


Dowel plugs


Wood glue -


I started off by grabbing some walnut that would work for this project. I used all 4/4 (read four quarter) walnut boards. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.21.47 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.21.51 PM.jpeg

I started laying out all of the pieces that I would need. I just used a piece of regular white chalk for this layout. It works quite well on the walnut. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.21.59 PM.jpeg

I took them to the miter saw, rough cut them as long as I needed.

Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.22.06 PM.jpeg

They were too wide for my jointer so I did a quick rip on the table saw. 

Then, I would get one flat face at the jointer and one flat side. Then, I would take them to the bandsaw to resaw the boards down the middle so I would have two out of that one original board. On some of the boards, this didn't work too well. By the time I did this and then glued them into a panel, the boards were less than 3/8". I felt like that was too thin to use the fasteners and dowel plugs I wanted to use. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.22.16 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.22.25 PM.jpeg

After resawing them and planing them to the same thickness, I glued them into panels since none of my boards were wide enough by themselves to work for the wine rack. This wine rack ended up being a little over 9 1/2" deep so I needed that much in width from these boards. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.22.36 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.23.29 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.23.38 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.23.44 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.23.52 PM.jpeg

Then, I took them over to the planer to make them all a consistent thickness throughout the entire project. It didn't matter to me what that thickness was necessarily, but just as thick as all of my material would allow and for all of it to be consistent. I think they ended up around 1/2" thick or slightly less after I planed them all. 

Next came the difficult part: laying out all of the cuts. I probably didn't have to assemble it this way, but I just liked the idea of it. I was basically using half-lap joints to make all of the little sections. The problem comes where the panels are over 9" wide, so the half-lap joint must be half of that, and cut accurately enough to get the boards to go together snug enough to not need glue, but also not too snug. It was difficult...well, for me, at least. I ended up making some of the panels three times because I kept messing them up. The first time I messed them up, I messed up a TON of the boards as I mentioned above. I just made them too thin. The second time, I messed up the two horizontal pieces when I was cutting the half-lap slots in them. On one side, I tried to make some of the cuts on the table saw using the sled, which of course left a rounded cut that extended past my line. Argh! I finally got it right on the third time. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.24.44 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.24.52 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.24.58 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.25.09 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.25.27 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.25.35 PM.jpeg

To refine some of the slots, I used rasps and sandpaper. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.26.22 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.26.29 PM.jpeg

So, the wine rack would have a pyramid look to it. The highest part would be completely flush, but all of the other horizontal surfaces would have slightly protruding vertical pieces. This was because stemless wine glasses were to be stacked there on top, and this gave them a little bit of a lip to stay put. (You can see this in the third picture below this...kind of in the background.) So for the top piece, I just put it all together in a dry assembly, set the top piece in place and marked how wide it needed to be. That way, it was exactly made to fit.

Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.26.51 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.27.18 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.27.36 PM.jpeg

For the very bottom piece, I put a 1/8" roundover on the bottom edges using a router. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.27.01 PM.jpeg

I milled up some small pieces of hard maple so they could be used on the inside of the cabinet as dividers. Also, I put some of these pieces of maple at the back of the compartments so the wine bottles could be sat on them and be stored at a downward angle. This prevents the corks from drying out if the wine is stored for a period of time. For most of these pieces, I only used glue to attach them to the walnut since they were small, and would not have a significant stress on them. NOTE: don't use too much glue here. It is really hard to clean up, and there were a couple of them that I used too much, having to manage the squeeze out. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.27.50 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.27.59 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.28.04 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.52.29 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.52.40 PM.jpeg

After marking out all of my holes where I would be attaching the sides, top and bottom, I took them over to the drill press and drilled recessed 3/8" holes. I would normally just use a pre-drill and countersink bit that is all-in-one that I have, but it would not have made enough room for the dowel plugs to seat like I wanted. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.53.42 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.53.51 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.53.54 PM.jpeg

I started assembling everything by putting together the half-lap pieces (picture things going together like a "T"). Then, I added one of the sides, checking for square as I went. I would pre-drill with a small drill bit, so the wood would not split. Then, I would drive in  a screw. It was really a puzzle to put this together. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.54.27 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.54.19 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.54.05 PM.jpeg

I cut some dowel plugs with my plug cutters, and these are the ones I recommend. I had some trouble with others, and this was about the third set I used. If you have never used dowel plugs before, they are tapered on one end. If you don't have much room in the hole to get them in there for a snug fit, you might have to trip the plugs down a little. The tapered end is typically not large enough to get a snug fit.

Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.52.55 PM.jpeg

There are two ways to remove the plugs once you cut them. You can use a small, flat screw driver to just kind of pop them out, or you can use the bandsaw to cut right at the depth of the plug, popping it loose from the base. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.52.59 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.53.24 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.53.32 PM.jpeg

After gluing in the dowel plugs, I flush cut them with a saw. Then, the sanding ensued. I used a random orbit sander to help coax the plugs to be flush with the surfaces. Then, I did a ton of hand sanding! A ton! I should have probably done more before assembling it, but there were just so many corners to sand by hand. I made sure to go with the grain of the wood so no marks would be left. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.54.52 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.55.07 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.54.59 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.55.33 PM.jpeg

Then, I added my maker's mark to the bottom, and dated it. (Yes, that says 2016...that's when this was completed. I need to get caught up on editing! ha ha.)

Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.56.08 PM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.56.12 PM.jpeg

I finished everything off with a few coats of satin spray lacquer, sanding between coats with 320 grit sandpaper.

Screen Shot 2017-10-13 at 8.55.45 PM.jpeg


I really like how this one turned out. It was really difficult for me to mess up as much as I did and still keep going with it, but I'm sure glad I did. I love the look of it with the maple accents against the dark walnut and the proud vertical parts to hold the glasses. 

Let me know what you think in the comments below!

modern wine rack-21.jpg
modern wine rack-25.jpg
modern wine rack-26.jpg
modern wine rack-31.jpg


Quick and Easy Drill Charging Station


Quick and Easy Drill Charging Station


In this video, I'll show you how to make a cordless drill charging station to organize your drills, chargers, bits and a few other things:


Last year, when I build my clamp racks, I built a few platforms that could be used on the same French cleat system. I thought this would work well, but with them being just flat platforms, they just accumulated so much stuff, I could often not put my drills where they belonged. They needed a dedicated spot so I could know right where to get them each time I needed to use them. 


Table saw -

Miter saw -

Drill & driver -

Wood glue -

Screws -

Random orbit sander -

Drill press -


As with many shop-made things, I try to make use of scraps I have lying around. I found some pieces of 3/4" plywood that would work, so I started laying out everything I thought would need to go in this drill charging station. I grabbed my drill/driver, the 2 chargers I have and some cases that hold bits. I eventually want to build something (probably closer to where the drill press is), where the bits are more easily accessible without having to open a case each time, but for now, this will have to do. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.13.03 AM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.13.10 AM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.13.33 AM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.13.42 AM.jpeg

After I saw how wide to make it, and how tall it must be to accommodate all of the items, I started milling all of the plywood pieces to those specifications. I used my crosscut sled for most of this, taking advantage of stop blocks that I could set up for repeatable cuts. As often as possible, I just use one of the pieces in the project to "measure" for the next piece. That way, regardless of the actual measurement, you know it will be the same as the other pieces. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.13.22 AM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.14.12 AM.jpeg

I drew some inspiration from some plans that Jay Bates put out a couple of years ago. He built one of these drill charging stations, but his was considerably larger. Again, I am just using what I have on hand, so I am building it smaller to use the material I have and it will still fit my needs. There were a few elements that he used that I incorporated into mine though, one of which was to have a little lip on the very top of the piece so it could be used as a shelf. I ended up putting my 2 part epoxy up there, so it was a great spot!

I used my hand to mimic what the shelf will look like to hold the drills. This allowed me to see just how wide and deep to make the cutouts that will actually hold the drills. I marked out this information on the board and took it over to the drill press to drill out a hole the width of the slot. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.14.34 AM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.14.26 AM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.14.49 AM.jpeg

Then, I finished the cuts on the bandsaw, bringing the slot all the way to the edge of the board. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.14.58 AM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.15.18 AM.jpeg

As I mentioned above, I wanted there to be a little visual interest to this little cabinet, so before I started assembling everything, I taped the two side pieces together, drew an angle toward the bottom, and cut that out on the bandsaw. Taping these together ensured they would both be the same. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.15.41 AM.jpeg

Since I cut this angle in the bottom of the side pieces, I needed the bottom most shelf to be shorter, and the front lip of that shelf to have the same angle. Again, I measured the length this shelf needed to be by just holding it up to the work piece and marking it. I honestly don't know what the angle was, but I just used my t-bevel to transfer the angle to the table saw, where I cut out the bottom shelf. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.15.55 AM.jpeg

I took one of the side pieces over to the drill press and drilled a hole large enough that the power cords from the two battery chargers could fit through. The side I used to drill the hole was dictated by where my outlet was, so be sure to do this according to where your outlet is located. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.16.07 AM.jpeg

I lightly sanded some of the materials, mostly on the edges to get rid of the bandsaw marks. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.16.14 AM.jpeg

I started by assembling the top shelf and one of the sides. I didn't do anything fancy for joining these, just some pocket hole screws. I actually didn't put a back on this shelf since it will be up against a wall.  

Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.16.36 AM.jpeg

I added on the other side, making sure it was square. Then, I added the other two shelves with some glue and pocket hole screws. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.16.48 AM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.17.04 AM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.17.25 AM.jpeg

I wanted the top two corners to kind of be rounded. Since I didn't do it before assembly, I couldn't really use the bandsaw for this. I chose to just use the random orbit sander to round these corners. I really like how it looks, so I'm glad I did it. It's always amazing how such a small detail can change the whole look of something. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.18.44 AM.jpeg

Next, it was time to turn my attention to the French cleat that would be used to hang the drill charging station on the wall. When you're doing a French cleat, there are a few things to keep in mind:

  • the angle does not have to be 45 degrees, so long as both of the boards have complimentary angles
  • if you're not doing a whole wall of cleats, be sure to at least make the wall cleat wide enough to be secured into 2 studs (this was 16" in my case)
  • You need to have a piece of material at the bottom of your cabinet or whatever you're hanging that is the same thickness as the cleat material. That way, your piece will sit flat against the wall and not try to rock down. 


Pre-drill your holes for your cleats...this will make it much easier when you are installing on the wall. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.17.48 AM.jpeg
Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.18.17 AM.jpeg

Mark the stud locations so you can be sure to hit them when securing the wall cleat. Again, be sure to hit at least 2 studs to be very secure. 

Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.18.01 AM.jpeg

Level your cleat, and you're ready to hang the drill charging station on the wall!

Screen Shot 2017-10-04 at 8.18.50 AM.jpeg

All that's left at this point is to load up the new cabinet with tons of stuff that was previously probably sitting on the floor (No? You're shop is not like mine?), plug in the chargers and enjoy how much more organized your shop is. 


All of these shop improvements I've done in the last few months have really helped me to be more productive. Having things off of the floor an in their "home" when you're done using them helps an incredible amount. 

Have you made something like this in your shop or for your home? Maybe in a pantry? Let me know if you have any questions or comments below. Thanks for following along!